Unlike Rome, only one road leads to Odina, an agriturismo haven in Tuscany, just a few kilometers south of Florence. We were there recently. Us two and our two kids and their spouses. We had a ball, the six of us. We took a private shuttle to get there from Firenze, making a two-hour-plus stop at Siena for lunch and to take in the sights. Stefano the driver was accommodating, stopping here and there to take photos and to stop at a co-op grocery store just prior to climbing to the top of the hill where Odina sits. We needed to get a few goodies and of course plenty wine.
Odina is an old hamlet, over a thousand years old, that was recently renovated to turn it into a villa. It used to house peasants that farmed the land nearby. It now houses temporary visitors like us. It sits at about 650-plus meters above sea level, a little over 2,100 feet for non-metric system users. Just imagine the views. We stayed at the main house, a mansion that goes by the name of Villa il Roseto. Has room for up to eight occupants. There’s a second building on the site with four bio friendly apartments and with different occupancy capacities.
Getting there was fun. The last three kilometers of the path leading to this retreat is a gravel road that twists and turns under the Tuscan sun. Again, imagine the views. Once you get to the site, a cheerful woman named Teresa welcomes you to Odina. She runs the place with a small staff. She’s good. Being there in early October was a great choice. The climate was pleasant, the breeze was just as pleasing. Had a chance to fire up the chimney. There’s plenty firewood, by the way. For the fireplace and for barbecuing outdoors, which we did.
Odina is surrounded by vegetation and trails that go up and down both gentle and steep hills. I walked them; our kids rode mountain bikes on them. The bikes are included, again, by the way. There are olive trees and all kinds of nut trees all over the place, along with different types of fruit trees, including those covered with persimmons. There are vegetable gardens too, with every herb you might need. Imagine having sprigs of basil growing near you and at arm’s reach to spice up the barbie. Sorry Dundee, had to steal that Outback term.
Had cooking lessons the first night there, hosted by Carlo the Chef. He was good. I just looked and ate at the end; the other five family members participated in the training. They learned to make pasta the real way. And cut it into pieces. They also learned to make tiramisu. Wow. I’m not supposed to indulge much in sweets but had to do it, and no one had to twist my arm to revel in that Italian dessert. The main dish came next. It was pork tenderloin wrapped with sausage, stuffed in bread, and flavored with fresh herbs just picked from the vegetable garden. Finger lickin’ good, I’m telling ya. And all topped with plenty vino brought in by Carlo.
When in Italy, you eat. And we did that again the following morning. The stay includes a plentiful continental breakfast. Fresh juice, tasty breads, cold cuts a la italiana, cheeses, pastries, fruit, hard boiled eggs, tea, coffee, cereals, etc., etc. Ah, and espresso or cappuccino prepared just for you by the friendliest hostess anywhere around.
Then came the pool. It’s huge and has a great view of the gardens and of the places beyond. There’s a big hammock near the pool that hangs from two old trees. Didn’t get on it; I was afraid I might not be able to get off of it without someone’s help. It’s a pride thing. It comes with age and already having seventy-six years under my belt. But I did plenty walking and explored every nook and cranny in that agri-tourism compound. Sat by a large table on the patio later on. Drank more wine. Had some rum too, Pampero Aniversario from Venezuela. Bought a bottle of it in Milan for twenty-one bucks. Imagine, it’s around forty dollars in Texas. What a bargain. Had more food, snacks mainly. Then waited for our son-in-law to fire up the barbie. There I go again Mr. Dundee. When in Italy, you eat. And drink.
Felt like a wealthy man, which I am not. I believe the rest of our family shared the same feeling. Thank you Teresa, thank you Odina staff. And thank you daughter, the one who found and reserved this Airbnb jewel high above, near the sky, and on Tuscan hills.
AUTHOR: Pedro Chávez